As we drop down towards the south coast our way is blocked by a bevy of goats following their goatherd on his quad-bike and coerced by a pair of stealthy sheepdogs. The bells around the necks of the most recalcitrant ring out a tune that has been played on these hills since time immemorial. The base notes rung by the biggest bells worn by the more indomitable members of this travelling band so they can be identified when they wander from the herd. The melodious tinkling of the smaller instruments sings out from the more harmonious members of the ensemble.