Agios Nikolaos is a gem of a town nestling beside the Gulf of Mirabello on Crete’s north-east coast. More self-contained and less sprawling than its larger counterparts, Heraklion and Chania, it retains an effortless beauty, not in the least part aided by its natural location. Looking as though it has always washed its face and brushed its hair, the town sparkles, even on the odd occasion when it rains.