‘Slowly’ is very much the byword here, both in terms of development and pace of life. Fortunately locals realise that Sougia’s face is its fortune and developments that might spoil its appeal would be counterproductive. Since I was here last there are a few more rooms to rent, the paintwork brighter and floral displays even more vibrant. There are no banks or, at the moment, even a cash machine.
Plenty of excellent tavernas line the wide beach, which runs down to the Libyan Sea. Quite simply, this is Sougia’s appeal. A place you can escape the day-to-day cares of life in a blissful cycle of swimming, sleeping, reading, eating and drinking. Who could want for more? After our walk we are in need of food and sit down to a feast of barbecue-grilled sardines with Greek salad and cold beer in frosted glasses.