The view from the Madame Hortense taverna, on a balcony elevated above the harbour, is one that puts us in danger of whiling away several hours watching the world go by while tucking into their speciality, kleftico. You can taste the love endowed in this leg of lamb. Drenched in oil and lemon juice laced with garlic and mountain herbs, it is marinated for at least 12 hours before being wrapped in parchment with potatoes and cooked long and slow, until the meat falls off the bone and the potatoes can soak up no more of the unctuous juices. The house wine is deep red, darker than those from further west. Copious in body, it is tempered by the severe chilling to which it has been exposed, helping to cut like an ice pick through the richness of the full-flavoured meat.